 |
Doug Metzger works his 1500-acre farm, which grows corn, sorghum,
wheat, alfalfa, oats, barley, Reese turkeys (he has worked with
turkeys since 1951) and pigs with wife Betty, son Mark, daughter
Marilyn, son in law Stan and their three kids. Farming has become
more challenging for Doug in recent years as he struggles to remain
independent in an era of commercialization. "The chicken industry
and the turkey industry went the way of industry," Doug explains,
" and I'm working hard so that the same doesn't happen to the
pork industry". Doug has raised purebred, certified Berkshire
pigs since 1954 and learned the art from his grandfather Fred, father
Wilhelm and father-in-law Japhet. These elder statesmen also taught
Doug how to raise the now endangered Tamworth pig (as of 1961) and
the Hampshire pig.
Fred Metzger was born 1885 in Lamar, Missouri to a family who had
recently moved to the United States from Germany. Fred moved to
Hancock, Minnesota when he was 10 and then to Larchwood, Iowa around
1900. Fred lived to be 104 and according to one source, had more
living descendents than anyone alive in the United States with 368.
Fred's son Wilhelm was born in 1911 and moved to Kansas in 1933
after he met and married the beautiful Julia Meyer. Julia's father
Japhet Meyer owned the farm where the Metzgers live to this day.
Doug currently has about 700 certified Berkshire pigs and 70 Tamworth
pigs but hopes to double that number through Heritage Foods USA.
For the past three years Doug has sold his Berkshires to the Japanese
market. But Doug hopes that rising interest in Berkshire pigs will
help him lay the foundation for a domestic market and allow him
to expand production to include other local Kansas farmers. Making
enough money to get by is the hardest aspect of farming for Doug
and is the greatest obstacle to allowing his grandchildren to continue
the work of four generation of Metzgers. But with growing support
from consumers and restaurants, there is hope.
The taste of these breeds is exceptional. Florence Fabricant of
The New York Times writes that Berkshire meat: "is darker,
more heavily marbled with fat, juicier and richer-tasting than most
pork, and perfect for grilling. Berkshires, which are black, originated
in England. Some were given more than 100 years ago to the emperor
of Japan, where they are called kurobuta." |